Books, Magazines, Journalism, Feminism Laura McLaws Helms Books, Magazines, Journalism, Feminism Laura McLaws Helms

Episode 38: Letty Cottin Pogrebin

From Queens, Letty grew up in a conservative Jewish family. At age 20 in 1960, she became the director of publicity for the publishing company Bernard Geis Associates—later rising to vice president. There she was instrumental in making books like ‘Valley of the Dolls’ and ‘Sex and the Single Girl’ into mega-bestsellers. In 1970, she wrote her first book, ‘How to Make it in a Man’s World’; after its success, she left her job to focus on writing and raising her family. She was a founding member of the National Women's Political Caucus, through which she met Gloria Steinem; in 1972, they founded Ms. Magazine together. Letty was an editorial consultant for the 1972 TV special ‘Free to Be... You and Me’ for which she earned an Emmy. Throughout the 70s, 80s, 90s and up to today, she has continued writing books—centering on subjects around the family, raising children, being a working woman, aging, and Judaism. Her latest book, ‘Shanda: A Memoir of Shame and Secrecy,’ was released in 2022; in it she unfurls generations of secrets in her family and discusses how the Jewish teaching of “Shanda,” or shame, perpetuated constant paranoia and secrecy. Letty and I chat about everything—her childhood, the abortions she had in college in the 1950s, how she got her start in publishing, her almost 60-year marriage to labor lawyer Bert Pogrebin, what ‘Mad Men’ got right about the 1960s, discovering feminism, Ms. Magazine, balancing career and family life, being a working writer, and rediscovering Judaism.

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Art, Magazines, Journalism, Counterculture Laura McLaws Helms Art, Magazines, Journalism, Counterculture Laura McLaws Helms

Episode 36: Steven Heller

Fashion and cultural historian Laura McLaws Helms speaks with art director and author Steven Heller. An incredibly creative and prolific individual, Steven is the author, co-author or editor of over 200 books on graphic design, illustration and political art. I interviewed him in the fall, around the publication of “Growing Up Underground: A Memoir of Counterculture New York,” which details his teens and early 20s working in the counterculture press. At 17 he became the art director at the counterculture weekly, the New York Free Press. He then went on to work for Screw, the East Village Other, Rock, Gay, Mobster Times, and Evergreen Review, before being poached at age 24 by the New York Times to be the art director of the Op-ed page. Steve was an art director at The New York Times for 33 years; 3 years on the Op-ed page, before moving to the Book Review. He became a senior art director in 1980. Steven is the co-founder and co-chair of the MFA Design Department and co-founder of the MFA Design Criticism, MPS Branding, MFA Interaction Design, and MFA Products of Design programs at SVA. Heller is also the recipient of the Smithsonian Institution National Design Award for "Design Mind," the AIGA Medal for Lifetime Achievement and other honors.

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Fashion, Art, Journalism, Magazines, Television Laura McLaws Helms Fashion, Art, Journalism, Magazines, Television Laura McLaws Helms

Episode 32: Joan Agajanian Quinn

Joan Quinn has been a major force in the Los Angeles art scene for 70 years, as a collector, promoter, advocate, and friend to generations of artists. While amassing a large “accumulation” of art, her passion and collecting zeal also made her a muse for artists—what started as some artist friends painting and sculpting her portrait in the seventies, has now grown into a collection of over 300 portraits of Joan. In the late 1970s, Andy Warhol asked her to become West Coast editor of Interview magazine; a role she later held with several other publications. From the mid-1980s until 2020, Joan hosted public access TV shows where she interviewed artists and creatives.

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Fashion, Writing, Beauty, Journalism Laura McLaws Helms Fashion, Writing, Beauty, Journalism Laura McLaws Helms

Episode 27: Shirley Lord

Shirley Lord is a journalist, beauty editor and expert, and novelist, who rose from working-class Cockney lass to one of the most influential people in the beauty industry through grit, good humor, and a passion for journalism. A features editor for a British women’s magazine by age 24, three years later she married the carpet tycoon Cyril Lord. Weaving easily between high-class entertaining and a high-powered career, Shirley worked for British Harper’s Bazaar and the Evening Standard in London before leaving her marriage in the early 1970s to move to New York. After a stint as beauty director of Harper’s Bazaar, she became beauty editor of Vogue—a job that she would have in some capacity for most of the next 40 years, only leaving briefly to be vice president of Helena Rubinstein. In the 1980s she married Abe Rosenthal, the legendary editor of the New York Times—they were together until his death in 2011. Shirley Lord has written two beauty books as well as several novels drawing on her deep knowledge of the glamorous fashion and beauty industries.

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Writing, Porn, Journalism Laura McLaws Helms Writing, Porn, Journalism Laura McLaws Helms

Episode 19: Veronica Vera

Recently I sat down with Veronica Vera, a woman whose career path is circuitous, varied and always joyfully playing just outside of society’s norms. From New Jersey, Vera grew up in a strict Catholic household. After college she moved to New York City and worked for a small brokerage firm on Wall Street. There she discovered sex—a revelation that forever changed the path of her life. Since then sex and sexuality have been the defining focus of Veronica’s multifaceted career as a sex journalist, porn star, erotic model, prostitutes’ rights activist and later the head of the world’s first cross-dressing academy, Miss Vera’s Finishing School for Boys Who Want to Be Girls.

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Fashion, Journalism Laura McLaws Helms Fashion, Journalism Laura McLaws Helms

Episode 12: Marylou Luther

In the last episode in this season, I sat down with acclaimed fashion journalist Marylou Luther to discuss her long and continuing career. Marylou has been writing about fashion since the early 1950s yet even after seven decades still retails so much passion and engagement with it. Over the years she has written for the Des Moines Register, the Chicago Tribune, McCall’s Sportswear, the LA Times, and since the mid-1980s she has devoted most of her time to the Fashion Group International, of which she is the creative director. Every season she attends the shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, and then puts together an audio-visual presentation that tracks the trends and which is shown to all members of the FGI.

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